Nubi & Me— Our Journey Through Upper Egypt

There are many people who make a journey unforgettable, and sometimes they arrive in your life quietly — just a driver, you think at first — and then they become the heartbeat of the experience. In Luxor, I was introduced, through my dear friend Mare, to a man named Nubi, and he ended up shaping the entire southern half of my trip through Egypt. For those unfamiliar, “Upper Egypt” is actually the southern region of the country. The Nile flows from south to north, opposite of the Mississippi, so the higher elevation in the south is “upper,” and the river descends toward the Mediterranean Delta in the north — “Lower Egypt.” It’s one of those delightful facts that twists your internal compass and reminds you that the world isn’t built from your point of view alone.

After spending time in Aswan and visiting the astonishing temples of Abu Simbel, I stepped off a plane and into Nubi’s car. I had taken eight flights in ten days, constantly hopping from place to place, and suddenly, for the first time, I was in a car for hours, driving through a country I was only beginning to understand. That three-and-a-half-hour ride from Aswan to Luxor became more than transportation. It was a road trip through sand and green fields, past the life-giving water of the Nile, through villages that rolled by like postcards, and into a new friendship. He brought fresh Cucumber sandwiches and Coca Colas for the trip. In the quiet hum of the road, after so many airports, I finally exhaled.

What I thought would be a simple transfer became a conversation about everything — Egypt and America, fatherhood, children, love, work, war, peace, and the things men learn from time more than books. Nubi was more than a driver; he was a guide to the landscape and to the culture beneath it. His kindness, honesty, and effortless hospitality helped me fall in love with Upper Egypt in a way that no museum or temple could have done alone. He stayed in touch with me for the rest of my trip and even arranged rides for me in Cairo! We continue to chat each week and keep in touch about all that is happening on both sides of the planet.

If you ever find yourself traveling through Aswan or Luxor, I hope you’ll make Nubi a part of your journey. His steering hand and generous heart are woven into my memories of the Nile, and I’ll share his contact information in the photo section of this entry so you can experience the same gift.

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