My day began in the most unexpected and magical way. Ashraf, my host at the lovely Osiris Guest House (link below) in Abu Simbel had to be at the temples at 6:00 a.m., when they first opened. He told me the night before that he would wake me with tea, a quick chat, and a short walk—just under a mile—from the guest house to the temples. True to his word, Ashraf knocked softly on my door an hour before sunrise, tea in hand, and off we went through the quiet morning air. When we reached the temple complex, he headed off to his work of unlocking gates and preparing the site, and I continued around the front. What I saw next is something I don’t think I’ll ever forget.

Like receiving a gift I dd not deserve, I saw Abu Simbel completely empty. Not one soul. Just me… and two colossal temples carved out of the mountain by the hands of ancient Egyptians more than 3,000 years ago. I was the first visitor of the day—literally—standing alone in front of one of the great wonders of human achievement. After about ten blissful minutes of silence, I heard the huge wooden doors, the same I had locked the night before, open. I saw a few shapes appear around the corner, then a trickle of footsteps behind them. Soon maybe a hundred people were milling around. But compared to the crowds these temples see, it felt like nothing. The peace held. I went inside and said a quick prayer to the Gods represented and then…

Then I witnessed what might be the most breathtaking sunrise I have ever seen. I have seen that Red Rocks, Cape Cod, Grand Canyon all had some stunning sunrises, but here I could turn around and watch the sky ignite behind me, then look forward again to see those first rays wash over the temple façade—four seated kings glowing as if they were being reawakened. The baboons above facing toward the east to see the very sunrise which they were created to worship. Thinking about it even now brings emotion to my throat. It was one of the most moving moments of my entire journey.

Eventually, I had to say goodbye to Abu Simbel. I had met my pal Elaina from Spain when she caught my bawling when I first saw the temple. Guess who’s on my flight to Aswan? Small world made even smaller when we got on the flight BY OURSELVES. The entire flight, we shook our heads as drank our cokes. Saying goodbye to Elaina, I was met by my wonderful driver and BFF, Nubi, (Contact Info below). He loaded my bags, greeted me with that warm Egyptian kindness I had quickly come to adore, and together we began the three-hour drive from Aswan to Luxor. I planned this in my itinerary instead of taking another flight as I wanted to see the desert from ground level. What a great choice I made. As if the day wasn’t lovely enough already, Nubi had even packed cucumber sandwiches for the ride. We talked, laughed, shared stories, and crossed stretches of desert that looked like nothing I had ever seen before. Every minute felt like something new to this American in Egypt. That was the best cucumber sandwich I’ve ever had.

And then we arrived at my next stop: Villa Amira (link below) in Luxor. I found it by chance on Airbnb, but I had no idea how lucky I was. Stepping through the doorway felt like walking into the pages of an Arabic novel. Soft arches, hand-carved furniture, warm lantern light, and that unmistakable Luxor breeze drifting through the open spaces. I felt like I was inside a magazine y’all. Nubi dropped me at the door, and a kind young man, Sobo, welcomed me inside, prepared me a delicious dinner, and then said he was heading home to his family. Suddenly I was standing alone in a six-bedroom Middle Eastern mansion—quiet, peaceful, and entirely mine for the night. I could stand on my balcony and see the Felucca’s on the Nile, lit up for the night cruises, and I saw that there was an “Ankh” painted on the bottom of the pool! That Ankh just keeps following me around, everywhere I go. I wonder what’s up?

There were even two beds on the rooftop, under nothing but open sky. People actually sleep out there. I did not; however, I went to sleep listening to one of the final calls to prayer drifting across the city. And somewhere between that voice in the air and the warm Luxor night, I realized I wasn’t dreaming, even if it felt like it.

I was grateful. Deeply. Completely.
It was an incredible day on my journey.

Tomorrow I meet Tutankhamun.

Osiris Guest House

https://www.booking.com/Share-QZPdNO3

Villa Amira

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/18831473

Nubi Ghanem Driver

+20 102 508 2009 (WhatsApp)

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